You have come to the right page if you are looking for Butterfly sailboat parts. We normally stock virtually all Butterfly parts and pieces, the items shown here are the things most-often requested. If you need something else including one of the items on the list below, drop us a note for a price quote and delivery estimate. NOTE: everything in stock has the "Add To Cart" button, if we are temporarily out of anything, that button will be missing.
We make many of the parts - hiking straps, bridles, stays, flotation panels, our own tiller extension, cutting all of the lines - in our solar-powered yurt high in the Colorado Rockies.
Hey!! Check out our Sale Bin for goodies at great prices!
Lots of Spool Ends (left-over line), Packs, assorted tops, and more coming soon as we clean and rearrange our shelves!
In addition to the common items listed below, we normally
stock the following parts for repairs or rebuilding;
replacement vinyl rub rail ($107.80), replacement handrails with spacer blocks ($27.50). Contact us to order any of those items, they involve some knowledge and skill and we want to be sure that you are properly prepared for the task.
Parts that no longer exist: The original mainsheet blocks, white sheaves with stainless steel hook & clip; the original drain plug, the black rubber snap version for a 1/4" hole; the old black plastic 'glove box' mounted on the side or back of the cockpit; old style masts (the original teardrop shape) - note, there are a FEW replacement mast tubes left BUT there are NO remaining splice pieces for joining the old style mast halves, so you if have - or can find - an old, bent mast, remove and keep the splices (we might even buy those from you!).
Jim's Tiller Extension $69 - Maximum length (to not foul in the mainsheet or bridle), ultra-light, easy grip rope-wrap handle, and with the best swivel made, one that doesn't jump out of your hand. The tubing is made of unidirectional S-glass, very strong and light, and it takes more abuse than carbon.
This is the Universal Joint Jim uses on his Tiller Extensions. Its a combination mechanical/rubber joint that doesn't jump, it stays where you left it. Notice that Jim finishes it off with heat-shrink tubing over the screw heads on the tube. For sailing schools or other heavy duty users, Jim can put heat-shrink tubing over the entire shaft for $5 more, it adds a touch of weight but makes the tubes much more abuse-proof. Full-length covering may take a day or two longer to send if one isn't sitting on the shelf.
Want a custom length? We can do anything up to 42" at the same price as the standard length, and anything from 42 to 72" for $94.00. But time to ship could be anything from 1 to 4 weeks, depending upon time of year. Contact us to order a custom length. (Shipping charges on longer extensions are much higher!)
Butterfly Sails, White $495.
In case you haven't been paying attention to sail prices - We now have 2 White sails at $495 (last year, they were $445!!). Once those are gone, new sails will be in the $650 to $750 range.
We are working with a new sailmaker for 2020, using a heavier cloth (5 oz instead of the old 3.8 oz) with a new panel size. Preliminary pricing is in the $680-700 range for white, and +$40-50 for color (we are working on a new 2020 color pattern!) we'll post that info as soon as we can confirm the details. We will still have the ability to supply 3.8 oz sails to recreational sailors who have no interest in racing, but because of cost increases over the winter, the price may only be roughly $40 below the 5 oz sail. We are looking at options to be able to continue to offer a less expensive sail for the recreational user.
NOTE (because we get questions); a sail in still a sail without numbers, they are only needed if you are racing. BUT a sail is NOT a sail without battens, so you don't need to order battens if you just need a sail! Battens are included!! The battens are listed below for those who need REPLACEMENTS.
Battens, $24/set, $8 each
Sail Numbers, $3.00 each
Sail Number Positioning; The numbers on the STARBOARD side go 1"-2" ABOVE the seam between the two long battens, while the numbers on the PORT side go 1"-2" BELOW that same seam. You can use the numbers themselves for spacing, they are spaced at least one number-width (any number except "1"!) from the leach, and at least the width of the "1" apart. HINT; do the starboard side first, then put the port numbers on in reverse order (from the leach) using the starboard numbers as a guide.
Assembly $125 Standard 3:1 with vang arm, (the vang arm is necessary to allow
the mast to rotate correctly - seen in lower left corner of photo on right.)
Vang Arm $58.50 alone,
Standard 3:1 Vang complete $65 without arm
4:1 Harken Carbo Vang, $209 complete (photo right), or $159 without Arm
All vangs come complete with line and shackles and the hook on the boom-end of the vang as seen on photo right.
New sailor hint; the cleat on the vang goes on the MAST end
as pictured, not on the boom.
Daggerboard $217.50 - sand and sailing shoes in photo right are customer-supplied!
Board Snubbers - the thingy that holds the board up, shown on top of the board trunk at the right - $33 for the kit, replacement blades (includes rubber spacer), $7.50 each. Note that 'each' means one snubber blade, if you need a pair, make sure to order 2!
Jim's Hiking Strap, $44.50 - really, it works across the cockpit as shown in the photo above/right (yes, a number of other classes use the same style 'athwartship' strap - for example, Lightning - and the sailors who use this style prefer it to the along-the-centerline versions, which tend to tangle lines and feet - ask any Laser sailor!) We now offer colors - photo left. Color note; the red and navy blue straps fad in the sun - red more that blue - so a boat cover is wise if you want to keep the color bright. Or remove the strap after sailing.
Royal blue is back in stock!
Butterfly Spray Rails - We found a new source in 2018, much lower prices (down to $159 from $240!) with more consistent quality. They come with screws and mounting/replacement instructions.
Rudder/Tiller assembly comes with standard factory-supplied Forespar tiller extension. There are two styles; the photo right is of the New Style, standard since the mid-80s, it attaches to one-piece stainless bracket - called the 'gudgeon' - attached to the stern of the boat.
The Old Style, photo left, attaches to two separate cast-aluminum gudgeons, is still available, either without a tiller extension or with a Forespar extension. (We also have replacement old-style gudgeons in stock if you are rebuilding an old boat.)
Note on Tiller Extension; instead of the Forespar extension,we can put on one of Jim's custom extensions (see top of page), see pricing below.
2019 head's up - aluminum prices have jumped up last year, so when we run out of existing stock, expect a price increase.
Replacement Tiller Handle $55. We can supply either new or old style, old style has a slot on the end, fits over the top of the rudder head and bolts through it all sideways, and the new style has only the bolt hole on the rudder-end of the tiller, attaching flat against the rudder head. See photo left.
Drain Plug/replacement plug assembly with screws and instructions, $7.25. Probably the least effective part on the original Butterfly was the drain plug, that little black rubber/brass snap 1/4" thing that was hard to use, and slow to drain. Somewhere in the '80's it was finally replaced with a modern molded plastic fitting with a captive screw plug, 1" in diameter. Those old rubber snap fittings can still be found if you search hard enough (fishing shops in the upper Midwest, they are used as bait well plugs - but you'll probably find 1/2" diameter plugs, not the old 1/4" ones). The new ones have two huge advantages; they work, and the plug doesn't get lost. We don't have any of the old ones left, upgrading is simple and you'll have something that you can rely on to work, over and over. Sorry, the manufacturer does not sell separate/replacement plugs, only complete assemblies. But if all you need is the plug, we'll send you a bare assembly without instructions or the screws for $6.95.
Mainsheet, Jim's favorite version, fuzzy, soft, and it floats, 8mm $25.95, or 7mm, $21.95. Made of New England Rope's wonderful Bzzz Line. In general younger sailors and recreational sailors prefer 8mm, racers like the 7mm.
Mainsheet Blocks - we can do this two ways; the standard blocks (on the right in the photo right), or substitute Harken Carbos for the two blocks on the boom. Recreational sailors and most youth or club racers will prefer the standard blocks, more advanced sailors will prefer the Carbos (Harken #2636, pictured on the left), which swivel and have a bit less friction. Note that the Std block, Harken #146, which does not swivel, should always be used on the bridle, with the shackle attached 90-degrees from what is in the photo. The block prices include the shackles as pictured. NOTE on blocks, price is for EACH, so you can mix/match as you need.
Halyard, 5mm (3/16") from New England Ropes, $21.25. We do not recommend using a shackle on the halyard - look closely at the photo on the right - but if you insist, we'll still sell you one, it's $9.00.
and it seems we have questions about the photo -> the KNOT at the end of the line STAYS TIED once you pull it tight!! It a 'figure-8' with an extra turn around the 'standing' part of the line to give it a bit more bulk so it doesn't pull through the eye on the sail.
Stay Set, $120 (stays only, not adjusters), side stays (shrouds) are $38 each, forestay is $44, stay adjusters are $12 each. All of the stays COME WITH the mast tangs already attached, so you have no extra work to make them fit, the only tools needed are a pair of wrenches. And one special note to owners of very old boats - your forestay might have been attached to the FRONT of the mast with two screws. This system no longer exists, but you can order a new Forestay and it will work fine, it comes with a fitting (called a 'hound') that uses your existing bolt holes that the side stays already use.
The New Style adjusters have a clevis pin and split ring for the stay attachment, and a spring-loaded captive pin to attach to the fitting on the deck. If you have an older boat - as shown in the photo on the right - look at where the side stays attach to the deck. If what is on the deck is a U-shaped fitting and the stay adjuster fits inside of it, then you have a bit of work ahead of you, the Old Style adjusters are no longer available. You will need to cut off the captive pin in the deck fitting, and order the "Clevis Pin Only" adjuster, which is similar to the New Style but modified by us to fit the Old Style deck fitting. If your side stay attachment does NOT look like the photo, then you have the New Style, and the New Style Adjusters fit without any, well, adjusting.... The forestay adjuster on all boats regardless of age is the New Style.
Need spare clevis pins/split rings? $1.79/set, you can find them using the Down Arrow on the Butterfly Stays "Add To Cart" box below.
Bridle, the vinyl-covered wire on the back of the boat that the mainsheet attaches to... this is the part on the Butterfly most likely to wear out, replace it if the plastic covering is damaged, or completely gone as we see on so many older boats. We make our own, its a stronger wire and thicker vinyl cover than the standard. On newer boats, you MAY be able to unscrew and remove the eye straps, and then attach a new bridle directly to the boat. But on older boats we don't recommend at all that you even try to remove the eye straps, you might end up having to cut a hole in the boat to find the nuts that have fallen off inside the boat! On newer boats, the machine screws attach to an aluminum plate on the inside of the deck, that have threaded holes instead of using separate nuts. TO BE SAFE, remove only one screw at a time, and just loosen the other, so that the backing plate will not fall off if the bonding putty has broken loose. BIG HINT: on any age boat, if you remove ONE screw and hear a nut fall off on the inside, there is still an aluminum backing plate there. If you know how to use a tap to put in new screw threads - or can find someone to help - you can tap the backing plate and use the next size larger machine screws to reattach the eyestrap. If you are unable or unwilling to try all of that, then simply order the bridle with shackles, and use the shackles to attach to the eye straps.
NOTE ~ since 2011, the Butterfly Class has allowed rope bridles - "Bridles may be made of rope or wire and shall be attached using only the existing attachment points on the deck. Bridles shall not be adjustable while racing. The minimum height of the bridle above the deck at its center shall be 4 1/2"." Rope replacements are an easy answer - but not necessarily a good one. Rope, especially cheaper Nylon, dacron, or polypropylene, will stretch, catch on the rudder head and prevent the boat from turning, and will wear and break much faster than wire, especially if they normally sit in the sun. The new high-tech ropes (Spectra, Dyneema, Technora) are a neat, short term solution, because most (but not all!) of them are slippery, the block will slide easily from side to side. But they will wear much faster than our wire bridles, and the Specrta and Dyneema versions will also deteriorate in sun, and stretch as well. For racers, any stretch is not good.
Our recommendations will be; tied rope as the cheap/fast need it only for a while answer, rope with eye spices for a better medium-term (1 to 3 years of useful life), and wire for the best, longest-lasting, answer.
Cover NOTE: We are working with a new supplier, and do not yet have pricing or possible color options other than the standard gray set for 2020.
Sunshine will fade the color of the deck or graphic insert. Protect your investment. We normally have Gray in stock, with other/custom colors usually available quickly. Additional shipping charges may apply to custom colors. Contact us for colors/availability. Use the above Contact link if you want to order (shipping typically $15-20).
If you would like more information on these products, send us an info request.